2105 Vias Imports Grand Portfolio Tasting

I just attended the Vias Grand Portfolio Tasting. Here are my notes.

The Drunk Dago pouring Sangiovese di Romagna
Bologna, August 2006

First off, let me start out by saying that this stuff, as they say in the biz, is my jam. Naïve as I was, I just couldn't believe that there were importers dedicated to bringing primarily Italian wines into the US market. I was like, They like this stuff too???

The winners of the tasting for me were a producer of Sangiovese di Romagna, a producer of Aglianico, and a producer of Nebbiolo.

First we begin with Fattoria Paradiso. Now I know my palate was coddled on Sangiovese di Romagna from my year in Bologna, so I will admit to being biased. But boy, this stuff is so gentle. It's a different clone of Sang than what they use in Tuscany, and the rolling hills outside Bologna make for a softer, more amicable expression of the grape. What I love about these wines is that they don't try to be any more than what they are. There has developed a benchmark style of Chianti, and it seems that all producers try to craft their products toward this style. But producers of Sangiovese di Romagna have no intention of producing Chianti. And at $11 a bottle wholesale, this stuff is a steal! They also bottle a 100% Barbarossa, and they claim to be the only label to do so. At first taste, I thought it was limited on the palate, but then I got nice notes of mint (or other sweet herbs?). Apparently they've been growing this grape since the 1950s.

Padova 2006

Onto Terredora di Paolo. I had purchased their entry-level Aglianico at a wine shop in Sonoma a few years back and enjoyed it. And all three of their versions of the grape were very lovely (only lovely) until we reached the 2008 Pago dei Fusi Taurasi. Holy Shitballs, this wine is amazing. They only release this label in the best vintages. The 2008 is on the market now, and they had not released this since 2005. A gorgeous dirty brown hue to it. Overall a savory experience, with tons of red meat. There is absolutely nothing that isn't integrated in this wine. All hints of grapy-ness have been eliminated. A sensuous finish. That grief-stricken moment after swallowing a sip made me covetous for more.

Finally, Il Chiosso. I don't gravitate toward Nebbiolo. Especially young Nebbiolo in the style of Barolo or Barbaresco. The tannins hurt my feelings. But I believe these wines are a beautiful expression of the grape and have been aged the proper time to allow the complexities to develop and the grape's inherent tannic/acidic character to mellow out. The winemaker poured three: A Ghemme, a Gattinara, and a Fara (Fara is a new DOC for me). In the glass, a gorgeous brick red that leans more toward the brown side of things. An inviting and generous attack, which I don't usually get from Neb. And, praise the Lord, it doesn't hit you with an Anschluss of tannin on the finish. I could drink these wines every day.

Other snarky notes:
Damilano: Italian for "tannin bomb". I could not distinguish amongst the 27 Barolos they were pouring (I'm exaggerating, but...)
Gouguenheim: I only care for the Torrontes. Use of oak to cover up mediocre fruit in the Malbec.
Lechtaler: I want to like these wines, but the alcohol is not integrated.
A slew of unmemorable Chiantis: Gagliole, Meleto, Rampolla

Still a big fan of Tenuta I Gelsi, who make the killer bargain wine, Gelso Rosso (100% Aglianico). Good juice!

A lovely Bonarda from Castello di Luzzano. I had already purchased their frizzante version (Manor House, NYC, $17), but the still version has more depth to it. Beware of the new labels! I mean, there's nothing to fear, but they are new.

I got into a discussion with two of the Italian pourers about Cabernet grown in Italy. I offered the idea that when Cabernet is blended with Sangiovese, it's like two kings battling over their turf. It just doesn't work. I feel that the tight, restrained dark cherry notes that often come from Cabernet grown in places like Bolgheri overshadow the bright strawberry notes of the indigenous Tuscan varietal. I believe Syrah and Merlot make better companions to Sangiovese because they more forgiving on the palate and don't require as much oak.

I thought I hit all the tables I wanted to, but flipping through the tasting guide afterward, I noticed there were a handful of producers I missed: Colpetrone (I've had their Sagrantino), Pecchenino (I've enjoyed their Dolcetto numerous times). I'm really bummed I missed Statti. I've had their Gaglioppo (I bought it at a wine store in Astoria for, like, $11). They make a blend of Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, and Nerello Cappuccio that I would have been very interested to try. Also a grape called Mantonico, that I know nothing about.

I noticed that I had already purchased a good number of the labels Vias represents on my own over the years. Some of my favorites from my blog I was pleasantly surprised to see in their portfolio: Terre di Paolo, Camigliano, Pecchenino, Colpetrone. Seems like I was attracted to these labels before I had any association with Vias.

I like Cantele's lineup, but I want more from Pugliese wines. I think things are just getting started for Primitivo and Negroamaro. Yes, these are simple, drinkable wines at great prices, but can more be done?

 learned about two new red grapes from Campania. Terre del Principe bottles two indigenous varietals, both blended and separate. They are Casavecchia and Pallagrello Nero. I was surprised at how tight, focused, and "cool climate" these wines seemed to be, despite Campania's being considered a warm climate. A suitable comparison was not coming to me, but Patrick mentioned Mencia, and I can see that. Or Maybe Cabernet Franc from Long Island. Either way, nothing like Aglianico.

I guess there's a discrepancy between Alicante and Alicante Bouschet. The former, to my surprise, can be used in Chianti Classico. Ampeleia, a label Vias carries, makes what they call an Alicante Nero, which they claim is Grenache. I have a hard time believing that.

Thoughts on Valpolicella: Recently I've been getting either acetone or heat. Really looking for a well-balanced Val.