Wine Reviews



Wine Review Policy

I have tried to review every bottle I tried but this proved to be too daunting. Also, truth be told, not every bottle is worth mentioning. There are many bottles out there that are perfectly enjoyable but not ideal candidates for review, as I find little originality to them. Here you’ll get a sense of what I drink and what I like. Some reviews are longer than others based on my interest and knowledge in the wine and the amount of time I choose to spend on each review.

What I include in my reviews
1.      Basic information supplied by label: vintage, producer, winery name, varietal or blend name, government classification
2.      Background information on the grape varietal and winemaker, if necessary
3.      Tasting notes: Nose, color, taste (initial taste, mid-palate, and finish)
4.      Unique characteristics of wine
5.      Any “off” tastes or remnants of poor production
6.      What, if anything, is lacking in the wine or what I would have done differently
7.      Where I bought it, what I paid, and what I would pay (ie what I think it’s worth)
8.      Similar wines I’ve had of same varietal, style, etc. and which ones come out on top
9.      When I would drink the bottle again

Who You Calling Cahors??
2012 Chateau Haute-Serre Malbec

Bursting with notes of sweet tobacco and under-ripe blackberry. Stemmy/bramble notes. I wonder if it was fermented whole cluster? Definitely on the "green" side of Malbec. Closer in structure and fruit to a lean CA Syrah or Cab than an Argentinian Malbec. Acidity is quite high--higher than I recall from drinking it previously. Perhaps it's the new vintage. Not as lush as the last time. Rustic and elegant...is that possible? If it were a blind tasting, I'd say a VERY lean cool-climate CA Syrah or maybe even a very rustic Zinfandel. Chewy tannins, with a tannic structure that is certainly not coming from Mendoza. A sweet spice note that reminds me of the one time I smoked a clove (cloves) cigarette. Also something very faintly green on the finish, somewhere in between mint and cilantro. Fine on its own but it explodes with food, especially animal fat. The acidity tames down and the fruit becomes riper. 

2013 Bonavita Faro


      No, Faro is not the grape and it's not a whole grain related to Spelt. It is an Italian DOC in the far northeastern corner of Sicily, surrounding the town of Messina. Here, only red wine is permitted in the district, and they are a blend of three indigenous varietals: nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, and nocera. The first of these grapes is the most remarkable, and it is not uncommon to see Etna Rosso wines (which are produced just south of Faro) made from 100% nerello mascalese. Nerello Cappuccio is a fine grape, albeit boring (I have tasted a 100% Nerello Cappuccio, the Fessina "Laeneo", at the recommendation of a customer, and I was underwhelmed). By itself nerello mascalese offers notes of sour cherry and is reminiscent of a mixture of Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, the former for its acid and the latter for its tannin. Another comparison might be the Greek grape Xinomavro. Both grapes produce wines that are more pale in color than one would expect, with a rustic edge but still graceful and elegant. Nocera I am wholly inexperienced with, but my assumption is that it doesn't offer much by itself, but is added as a sort of nostalgic vestige (The same way that, say, Vespolina or Uva Rara may be added to Barbera and Nebbiolo blends...it's like, what exactly do these grapes add?) The estate is owned by Giovanni Scarfone, and he employs organic farming practices with only natural yeasts, manual harvesting, and no added chemicals. It is a breathtakingly small 2 hectares (about 5 acres). Yields are kept precipitously low, and only 3500 bottles were produced. The traditional albarello training system is used. It is aged for 12 months in neutral French oak with an additional 6 months minimum in bottle. The uvaggio (cuve) for this bottle is 60% Nerello Mascalese, 30% Nerello Cappuccio, 10% Nocera (Only 10% maximum Nocera is allowed). It was pretty textbook for the style. There was a pronounced note of violet on the palate, as well as hints of cocoa powder and white pepper. It finished rather tart. I would say this bottle needs another 3-4 years to reach its peak. It would go very well with a heavy cioppino or some squid ink pasta.  Given the very limited production of this wine, I would say that the $28.00 front-line wholesale price ($42 retail) is fair, although it would be a stretch to compare it favorably to other Italian reds in that price point. In a blind tasting, would I choose this over a lovely Gattinara or robust Taurasi, knowing they were priced the same? Perhaps not. 

2013 Corte Dei Papi Cesanese del Piglio

     Cesanese is Lazio's only important red grape varietal. In Piglio, it is given DOCG status. I wonder if this is a sympathy designation. Do these wines really merit Italy's highest ranking? They produce wines that are inky in color but approachable and simple on the palate. I would say that generalization is true about this wine. In the glass I would compare the color to Malbec or Syrah. The nose offers a strong presence of alcohol, some barnyard, and that typical "lick a brick" smell that one gets from entry-level Italian reds. A hint of pepper. It's rather sour (or bitter?) on the palate, and the alcohol presence doesn't go away. I don't know--there's something cheap about this wine. Melanie and I enjoyed it at a wine bar in Astoria, but we were already kind of dr*nk when we ordered it. Now that I'm drinking it with all my faculties, it's kind of disappointing.



2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo

In the glass, a lovely brick red. No hints of fading to
orange yet. On the nose, subtle hints of soft white pepper, tart cherry, and a menthol-like Halls cough drop quality. On the palate it is extremely dry. The cherry from the aroma does not come through on the palate--at least, not for me. Austere and unforgiving in its tannic display. What's left in your mouth after the swallow is akin to drinking an over-brewed cup of black tea. You feel like wiping the chalk off your teeth and sides of your mouth with your tongue, wondering if you're drinking the wine or if the wine is drinking you.   I call this "Elmers glue on the gums" tannin.
I will admit it does have lovely fruit on the attack, but the grippy-ness of the young tannins just stage a coup de bouche in your...well, mouth. Nebbiolo is like the

"F You" of Italian reds: it's going to be how it is, unapologetically, no matter what you think of it.
I really have tried to like this wine. I've tasted it probably five times now and I am still put off by it, despite the nearly unanimously positive reviews of my co-workers and people in the industry whose palates I trust. For many this is the go-to Nebbiolo in this price range ($23 retail). For me, it's too young. It was bottled two years ago. The Langhe hills produce Nebbiolo that are akin to their Barolo counterparts, which means that their acid and tannin need at least a solid 5 to 6 years before they are drinkable. Nebbiolos from other parts of Piedmont, such as the gentler hills found in the north, can be enjoyable two years out, but not these.


4 Bordeauxs I don't remember drinking 


They were at least decent, I think. I just wish my palate for Bordeauxs was better. I wish I could speak more about them, and I wish I could enjoy them more. Saint-Florin I bought at Wally's in Westwood for $15.   


 It confirms my  opinion that inexpensive wines from Spain, Italy, and France are a better bet because they're made technically sound (even if they don't offer much else). 






2007 Azienda I Greppi, "Greppicante", Bolgheri, DOC
Friday, July 18, 2014 12:53pm

       I had high hopes, given it's the "baby brother" of the Wine Spectator-touted Super Tuscan Greppicaia, and earned No. 46 in Wine Spectator's "Top 100 Wines" for 2009. Presumably the French varietals Cab, Merlot, and Syrah "thrive" in the soils of Bolgheri, the region in Tuscany that is home to Sassicaia, the label that put the "super" in "Super Tuscan". Unlike other well-known Super Tuscans like Tignanello, Greppicante contains no Sangiovese whatsoever, and, in fact, the Bolgheri DOC grows very little Sangiovese compared to the French varietals that started to be planted there in the 1940s. Villa Antinori, which produces Tignanello, keeps their Super Tuscan heavy on the Sangiovese because they made their name as being Chianti producers and are based in Florence. So, in a way, for them, not including Sangiovese would seem to be a disservice to their reputations. Anyway, this wine fell flat both on the nose and in the mouth. I just learned what "dumb phase" means, and I can't help but think that this wine was in the dormancy period when I bought it in 2011. An interesting article about dumb phase: http://www.decanter.com/people-and-places/wine-articles/583842/when-wine-goes-to-sleep. Apparently the Greppi vineyard is owned by Viticcio, another Wine Spectator favorite. I was on a Super Tuscan kick around early 2011, and it was bottles like this that caused me to stop buying them. Maybe I'm ready to return? I don't know; I might still need some more therapy. I bought this for $20 at Wade's Wines in Agoura. 


2010 Incanto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

       I don't know how they offer a bottle like this on the market for $10. This wine is an excellent representation of the Sangiovese grape, without the astringency, slantedness, and youthful awkwardness that many (almost all!) $10 Sangioveses fail to rid themselves of. Aged already three years (two of which were in oak), this bottle provides great tannic structure, just the right amount of acid, dark cherry, and a very full and warm mouthfeel. I could imagine it aging another 10 years and doing just fine. Closer in style to a Brunello than a Chianti (an attractive dryness without the sandpaper quality that maintains more of the fruit component) and showing just the right amount of oak aging for a wine of its type (2 years--more than the fruit-forward young Sangioveses and far less than the brooding Brunellos), this wine also presents what wine-searcher.com describes as a "gently-tannic 'tea-leaf' finish". No wonder I responded so well to it. Other reviews on cellartracker.com are positive across the bored, but I disagree that this is merely an "excellent weekday quaffer." I think its being so inexpensive is tainting these peoples' palates. I would pay $20 for this and enjoy it just as much. In fact, it was much more enjoyable than a lot of $20 bottles I bought. Ok, I could go on, but I"m going to stop. But not without first mentioning that I've enjoyed two bottles of this (not alone!), and there were of equal quality. The first bottle I saved overnight, and it was almost as drinkable as the first night (despite a bit of undesirable oxidation). That's all she wrote, folks. Go pick up a bottle. Trader Joe's for $10. If you're attending a dinner party where Italian is on the menu, this should be your first choice. 



2007 Garlider Klausner Laitacher, Eisacktaler Sudtirol,  DOC

Boy, these Germanic Italian labels do nothing to help the amateur wine drinker. This wine hails from Italy's Alto-Adige region (Italy's northernmost!), also known by it's German name, Eisacktaler Sudtirol.The most recognizable grape from this region is Lagrein, but they also grow some other interesting reds, as I have discovered.  Garlider is the producer. Klausner Laitacher is the name of the style of the wine, which combines several red varietals, but this bottle is a blend of mainly Schiava and a touch of Lagrein. Stylistically, this wine is very similar to Teroldego or Lagrein, although lighter and tarter. The tartness comes from the lack of sun in those sub-Dolomite vineyards! 12% alcohol...just right for my tastes. The website of Astor Wines, where I bought this (for a  dec-plus $21.99) describe it as having a "distinctly mineral component." Sure. "Delicate and Burgundian, it offers notes of red berries, wild flowers, and white peppers." Sure. I recall wanting this wine to be more complex for the price point, but I'm willing to pay a bit more for an introduction to a varietal I'd otherwise never encounter. 

2007 Duce Sanfelice Ciro Gaglioppo Riserva DOC 

      I wish I could remember better how this wine tasted, because I do recall enjoying it a lot. Unfortunately, these obscure Italian varietals get the best of me, and they started to be indistinguishable in my mind. I drank this, a Petit Rouge, a Teroldego, a Bardolino, and a Schiava all within the same two-month time frame...who can blame me?? The Gaglioppo grape is indigenous to Southern Italy, and popped up around the time of Aglianico but is more closely related to Sangiovese. I can understand that, given its nice tannic and acidic structure. But don't worry, this is a light, quaffable (albeit uncomplicated) wine that doesn't need to age. Great for warm weather. Ciro is the appellation in Calabria. This wine is surprisingly light considering the kind of heat Calabria gets. Let's drink more Gaglioppo! 



2009 Stolpman "La Coppa" Sangiovese (Santa Ynez) 

      Bouquet of freshly-picked roses (or rose water).  Deep garnet in color. Perky. "Jumpy" mouthful that refuses to sit (This is a positive experience). Much closer to   a Tuscan Sangiovese that many of the  other Californias I've had. Good work on the restrained   fruit. Surprisingly complex for a 2009.    No   comparison to Mosby's acid bomb. Perfect balance of fruit and tannin. I drank a second bottle  and got a little heat going down. Still, my California Sangiovese of choice, above many others.






2009 Giovinazzo Teroldego (Sunland) 

The Giovinazzo label is the Cal-Italian offshoot of winemaker Michael Giovinazzo's local cellar, Sunland Vintage, just down "the road" in Thousand Oaks. As far as I can tell, all wines with the Giovinazzo label are from Italian varietals. Now, you don't have to twist my arm to drink Dolcettos and Barberas and Nebbiolos from California (just to name a few). That's kind of me niche. So I was very excited to try these wines for the first time at the birthday party of a dear old family friend, Daniel Shoenewald. I was able to meet Michael and he and I talked a bit about his winemaking philosophy and style, and we shared our love of Italian varietals. Just a couple of WOPs, hangin' out.
This Teroldego, all things considered, is an impressive wine. "Earthy", as Daniel's wife, Felicia, described it. She recommended letting it breathe for a while to get the full effect. As with many Cal-Italians I've had recently (such as those from San Vicente here in Camarillo), I've been super impressed with the fruit presence. You'll never get this kind of fruit from an Italian Teroldego. This bottle is certainly more muscular than Bill Mosby's effort, which takes on a more floral, feminine profile. The wine is very well balanced, except for the astronomically high 15.6% alcohol level, which approaches the Port designation. I will say, for such high alcohol content, it's very well-regulated, and I don't get any heat, which would normally bother me to the point of making the wine undrinkable. Presume the majority of these grapes are grown in Lodi, where he gets most of his other grapes. Make no qualms about it: Lodi get hot. Today (the 4th of July) it is a sultry 94 degrees. This is why Lodi has become known as the Zinfandel Capital of the World, because the rustic, alcohol-friendly Zin thrives there. But are Teroldego grapes suited for that kind of scorch? The current temperature in Trent, Italy right now is 74 degrees, a staggering 20 degrees lower than Lodi. So, no, these grapes are not meant to get as ripe (and sugar-filled) as the grapes that went into this bottle. But this raises the question of the purpose of growing and bottling Italian grapes in California. I always err on the side of mimicking the grape-growing conditions of the Old World, to see how the two styles compare. Many Cal-Italian winemakers will disagree with me, though, and say that it is precisely the versatility of the soil in many parts of California that allows them to plant Italian varietals virtually anywhere with a lot of success. That argument is perfectly valid, until you realize that, had I now known that this wine was Teroldego, I never would have guessed it. One of the key elements of a fine bottle of wine is the fidelity to the varietal. Now, Italians who grow Teroldego are confined to express the varietal accurately, because they have no other choice. These grapes have been growing in their soil for thousands of years, and so by now they know exactly how to prune the vine, how much water they need, and when to pick. A good Teroldego wine, then, is simply that: a good representation of the grape. These Cal-Italian efforts, while being enjoyable, are not representing the grape. And trust me, the Teroldego grape has so much to offer on its own without having to taste like Cab or Syrah or Malbec. Was this Michael Giovinazzo's effort to create a wine in the style that many current California wine drinkers will approve of and buy by the case? It's quite possible. 

   
2013 Honoro Vera Monastrell DOP Jumilla

Wow…Monastrell…who would have thought? A few years ago I bought a Spanish Monastrell (better known as the French Rhone blending grape, Mouvedre) at Bottle Rocket in Manhattan (I believe it was the Bodegas Castano Monastrell, maybe a 2009 or 2010), and I was not blown away with the results. I just couldn't get a handle on the flavor profile of the grape, and apart from that the wine didn't offer any other notable characteristics. But this, my friends, is a delicious wine. Initially quite tart on the attack, so give it some time. After it breathes, it offers a really lovely nose, full of fresh fruit. Great tannic structure. An extremely unusual wine. Maybe a lighter version of an Australian Shiraz, in terms of the lush fruit. God, what great inherent flavor. But not for everyone. My companions for the evening were not as impressed. Perhaps I was just really in the mood to drink? I would describe this as a more masculine wine. And those of you who know how in touch with my feminine I am, that's saying a lot. The French would never make a Mouvedre like this. The grape doesn't grow as well in France, so they've reduced it to a minor Rhone blending grape. The Spanish soil seems to love this stuff, though. I would be interested to see what a California winemaker would do with this grape. Too much alcohol would be my guess. 
And this is a 2013…what, did it age for 5 minutes?? Way to go, Spain. You have successfully put Monastrell back on my map. Love your show. I purchased this bottle at Greenblatt's Deli in Hollywood, and at $7.95, I'd buy a case! 



2012 Perazzeta "Sara" Sangiovese IGT 

       A lot of minerality on the nose and some undesirable alcohol. Extremely tart and bitter. High, high acid, high tannin. Poorly integrated. Mouth-puckeringly dry. Not much redeemable here. For some reason, I can't stop drinking it, though. Maybe I just want the buzz? I'm going to close it up overnight and see how it fares tomorrow. Maybe it will mellow out. I purchased this at Greenblatt's Jewish Deli in Hollywood for $8. 








2010 Kenneth Volk Negrette-San Benito 

Well, there's a first for everything. "Negrette"..."little black one".   I know nothing about this grape, but I learned online that it hails from Southwestern France, is low in tannin and acid, and produces deeply pigmented, soft, and silky wines.     This bottle definitely showed inky qualities in the glass.   Very concentrated fruit, but not completely discernible.      But I enjoyed it. Volk has been bottling this since 1991, which is incredible, considering that this varietal is nearly unknown still today. 
     See if this link works: 
http://www.volkwines.com/10%20Negrette %20Fact%20Sheet%20Final.pdf




2012 Cantine Pirovano Sangiovese di Romagna DOG

      I am SO excited about this ridiculously under-priced Sangiovese from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy. This is exactly what inexpensive, modest, well-made wines like this should be: dry, sleek, well-balanced, somewhat complex, and a bit savory. No hint of the over-dry sandpaper quality that, in my opinion, plagues more expensive Sangioveses from Tuscany.  You could drink this all night long. This takes me back to my year in Bologna, where wines like this packed the shelves of the local Coop supermarket for around 3 to 4 Euros. I got this for $9.99 at Whole Foods, and it has become my new "House Wine". I want some right now! 






2010 Indaba Shiraz

My first experience ever with a South African wine (and it's not Pinotage....shame on me), and I was very, very impressed! The grapes are grown in South Africa and production is overseen by a Dutch South African, but this label was developed by the US. I was hesitant cracking this open considering that most inexpensive Syrahs from the New World are jammy fruit/alcohol bombs, but this wine was beautifully balanced and reminded me of Syrahs from California's Central Coast twice its price (I'm thinking of Bridlewood or Qupe or Hahn). It's a luscious wine bursting with berries and vanilla, exhibiting the velvety texture that warm-weather Syrahs are known for. Again, I want to emphasize balance. Absolutely no technical flaws to speak of, which, for this price point, is the one indispensible requirement. I was given this bottle as a birthday gift by my friend Lee (Thanks, Lee!), who said he purchased it at Shaw's supermarket in Boston for I believe $8.99. An under-$10 high-quality young Syrah from a supermarket? That never happens. I would have easily paid $20 for this wine. I would recommend as a perfect "everyday" wine, but this is much better than most everyday wines I consume! One of the best values I've come across in a while.

2008 Senda Tempranillo

I can honestly say I've never had a bottle of wine quite like this. An inky presence in the cup with a lovely rose-colored rim. On the nose, dense candied cherry, some fruit liqueur that I can't quite pinpoint, and rose petals. Tasting notes heavy on vanilla with some sort of spice undertone. The overall feeling of the wine is one of warmth, which is refreshing after an unusually cool Boston summer day. This wine is intense and brooding and reminds me of port, even though it's not astronomically alcoholic. I purchased this bottle at the Wine Emporium on Tremont Street in Boston for $12 and I consider that to be a real steal. Thoroughly enjoyed. Please drink!




2010 Georg Mumelter St. Magdalaner Classico Griesbauerhof DOC

Great, a list of polysyllabic German words on a bottle of Italian wine. Daunting to the even the intrepid and adventurous wine drinker. Let's just break this down. The varietal is most commonly known as the Italian Schiava, but synonyms include the German Trollinger and Vernatsch (And to make matters worse, no mention of varietal is listed on the label). The full name of the region is Trentino/Alto-Adige/Sudtirol. The Producer is Georg Mumelter. The subregion is St. Magdalaner, a zone which produces wines made mostly of Schiava but which may be blended with Lagrein. Griesbrauerhof ("Stony farm") seems to be a moniker for the vineyard. Classico indicates a certain standard of quality or perhaps a specific growing zone, although nowhere near the prestige that this label gives to, say, Chiantis. Erzeugerabfüllung (Erz-huh?) indicates that it was bottled by the producer.

The main confusion with these wines is that, until World War I, this crevice of Europe belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and even today is primarily Germanic culturally. As such, these wines are often drunk by Italians and compared with other Italian wines, and yet historically and stylistically they belong to Austria, whose red wines are usually off-the-radar. It is a fascinating blend of Northern European history with Italian modern-day politics. I've been to Trent. It is a charming and evocative locale. I felt like I was in a scene from The Sound of Music, except that the food was better.
My first dabbling with this varietal (I'm a sucker for the obscure), so this bottle piqued my interest. Apparently these wines are recognized for their strawberry notes, but I didn't pick up on them.
In the glass, this wine's color is completely translucent, reminiscent of Valpolicella (also a relatively cold-weather wine). First impression was the overwhelming acidity and complete lack of tannins. The wine has an ample amount of fruit, but nothing specific came to mind. What came to mind was the combination of a slightly gentler Barbera (which I have sworn off from drinking because of its insufferable acidity) and the tartness and thinness of Beaujolais (Can you tell I'm not being terribly complimentary?). Truth be told, really too slanted and one-note to enjoy. It was, however, an appropriate red wine offering for a summer evening and provided just enough structure to not overpower the blue fish, roasted kale, and cheesy grits that we paired it with.
I purchased this bottle at Streetcar, a brand-new wine and beer store in Jamaica Plain, for $18. I appreciate the fact that I can locate such an obscure wine at a store just down the street from my house, but I didn't feel that this bottle offered enough for the price point.


2010 Martilde Bonarda, Oltrepo Pavese DOC 


      To distinguish it from the Argentine Bonarda (which, admittedly, it more well-known and more accurately labelled as Charbono), this varietal would best be referred to as Croatina. I've had an Argentine Bonarda (They're notoriously under-priced. Mine was $6 and delicious) and I enjoyed it a lot, so I was curious to see what the Italian version would taste like, even though I knew going in that they were two completely different grapes.
At the first sip, a lot of fruit comes through. But upon swallowing, I was struck with an overpowering but bizarrely masochistic (read: enjoyable) moisture-draining sensation. I immediately thought of the brooding tartness of pomegranate, which is an automatic win for me. Melanie, my astute companion for the evening, mentioned cranberries, and I whole-heartedly agreed. I was blown away by the concentration and focus of this wine. It knew exactly what it wanted to be without being overpowering. 

This wine would have sufficed by itself, but was augmented when paired with some Asiago. I enjoyed this wine a great deal and can't imagine anything it lacked or anything I would have changed. I purchased this at Streetcar in Jamaica Plain for $14, and I find it to be perfectly priced.



2005 Borgo Scopeto Borgonero IGT

60 Sangiovese/20 Cabernet/20 Syrah. You can spot a Super Tuscan from a mile away by the IGT designation and the heavy bottle. Apparently other reviews consider this to be a wide, intense, noble-tasting wine. I didn't get any of that. I could barely get past the over-oaked quality which reminds me of trendy mid-90s California Merlots. With the blending potential of such interesting grapes as Sangiovese, Cab, and Syrah, why add so much oak? It's wines like these that make me so on-the-fence about Super Tuscans. This wine offered me very little. Nothing original. Not for my palate. Discounted to $15 from $35 at Wine Emporium in Boston. It's a good thing; I wouldn't have paid more than $15



2009 Alapay Lagrein (San Luis Obispo County)

      Lagrein is a rather obscure varietal from the very North-east region of Trentino-Alto-Adige. In terms of climate, food, and culture, this niche of the world is far more Northern European than Mediterranean. Combine that with border disputes between the Italians and the Austro-Hungarians at the end of World War I, and you get a group of people still quite culture-confused. For many of its inhabitants, German is the mother tongue and most come from Austrian or German ancestry.
      The only other expression of the Lagrein grape that I've had was the La Seduzione by Mosby winery in Solvang (an exceptional wine, as well.) I imagine the more Old World approach from the Italians would produce a very different wine, and I'm itching to get my hands on one. They're difficult to find.
      To what shall I compare the Lagrein grape for those unfamiliar with it? Genetically, it's a descendent of the Teroldego from  the same region, but I don't think that helps many of you.   Think a more serious, inky Gamay. My only other association would be Mouvedre (Monastrell), if you can find it bottled as a varietal.
Alapay (meaning "heavenly" in the local Chumash Native American dialect) is a self-proclaimed "boutique-like" winery in Avila Beach, California, a Shangri-La-like corner of the world that stirs inhabitants and visitors alike to require very little more when approaching the end of life. Committed to small production wines that require ample affection. As far    as I know they do not grow their own grapes, but buy them from vineyards from all around the state (This is an increasingly common practice in California. I'm not sure how I feel about it.) Of interesting note is that these wines are made with fewer added sulfites, a preserving agent. As a result, they are meant to be drunk young. I'm scratching my head.
The hue of this wine is intensely purple-black, almost akin to eggplant. On the mouthfeel, crisp, perky, tart, and fresh. The attack is an explosion of black fruit (blackberry), not unlike a Spanish Monastrell I had once, or say a Carmenere. Let's just say the fruit alone isn't anything to write home about. But what follows is. I got an enormously pervasive mid-palate. More of a sensation than a flavor, it's as if the volume of the wine expands in your mouth and fills it with a warm, pleasant mild burning sensation. Like sitting in front of a campfire...in your mouth. But the gold star goes to the finish, as it should. Talk about lingering. Probably 10 to 15 seconds. Captivating and seductive. I really got into this wine!
My family noted what a perfect pairing to the lamb this made. The recipe I'll post later....

2004 Saladini Pilastri Rosso Piceno (Piediprato) DOC 

Pilastri is the producer. Rosso Piceno is the DOC Appellation. Piediprato is the name of the vineyard. 50/50 Sangiovese and Montepulciano, although Vino Italiano says the most basic Rosso Piceni must be made from 70 Sang and 30 Mont. The book also says of this producer, "The basic Rosso is a solid wine, with some of the savory, earthy, foresty notes of a good Sangiovese. Hails from  Le Marche, a region known for its dearth of quality wines. And my impression of this bottle confirmed that reputation. Being locked up for eight years, I knew this bottle needed time to open up. But at a $10 price point I wasn't sure if time in the open air would have saved it. Initial nose and palate offered very little to work with. After an hour or so of decanting, dark cherries came out in the palate but the nose was still unflattering. Wine Spectator seems to think this wine is drinkable for another   five years, but I would say this bottle is already   past its peak. Don't get me wrong; this bottle may have been delicious three or four years ago.  Among the four of us we couldn't even finish it (Around here, that never happens.) A rough drink. Purchased for $10 at Martignetti's wine import in Brighton. Despite their Mecca-like inventory, I was disappointed by this selection. 


2008 Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva DOP (Puglia) 


A return to an old favorite, but unlike most old favorites, this one stayed the same! I first picked up this gem at the Trader Joe’s in Brookline back in 2009 for what should have been a criminal $13. I lusted for it again, but they stopped carrying it, to my dismay. Couldn’t find it for another two years or so until I stumbled across it at The Wine Emporium on Columbus Ave. in Boston (now for $15, but that’s still a deal). I’ve acquired the bad habit of romanticizing bottles of wine that I really fall in love with, and then coming back to them only to be disappointed say a year or so later. Hey, palates change. But this one stayed consistent. An excellent introduction to Southern Italian wines.
      I would say the selling feature of this one is its sheer flavor attractiveness. It remains honest to the great backbone that Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera offer and is not overly-extracted or watery like some Pugliese winemakers allow their wines to become  (Hey, with all that sun down there, who can blame them?). A lovely fruity attack but a dry finish that feels like cream in the mouth. Manageable tannins. Lots of personality but not overwhelming in any way. A wine to drink every night, also versatile with food.

      Salice Salentino is a wine district in the Puglia Region of Southern Italy (also known as “The Boot”). Gorgeous beaches! Wine has been produced down there perhaps longer than any other region of Italy, but up until about fifteen years ago the winemakers favored quantity over quality, and their fruit became jug wine of little worth. Enter an appreciation for the grapes indigenous to the area and a slew of improved winemaking techniques (cleanliness above all), and you get the impressive wines that are now drunk all around the world. While these wines don’t yet compete with Barolo or Chianti, they represent the greatest value of Italian wines on the market because they can be produced in greater bulk and the “buzz” of their quality hasn’t yet hit the mainstream public (give it five years). So buy away! Among Pugliese wines, Primitivo is more well-recognized (thanks to its reunion with long-lost twin brother, Zinfandel), but Salice Salentino is quickly appearing on more kitchen tables.

      Negroamaro (“Black and Bitter”) is, in my opinion, a first-class grape that is grown almost exclusively in Puglia. You’re just as likely to find it bottled as a varietal as you are to see it blended with Malvasia Nera, Primitivo, Sangiovese, or any other northern transplant. It tends toward an inky color and mouthful, but not in a pruny Nero D’Avola sort of way. The grape exhibits an inherent balance of acidity, fruit, and tannins, making a very consistent. product.

      Malvasia Nera is a semi-obscure varietal that is often used for blending, but can be delicious when bottled as a varietal as well. While The South plants the most (it accounts for almost half of Salice Salentino’s acreage), Piemontese vintners will blend it with Nebbiolo and Petit Rouge in their “Rosso” tables wines. At one time Tuscan winemakers added it to Chianti to soften the tannins of Sangiovese. The only varietal bottle I’ve had was some Umbria, and it was a light and technically sound wine, akin to a Pinot Noir. 

      Also of note is the classification of DOP: Denominazione di Origine Protetta. I’ve never seen that before. Is it below Garantita? This label must have slipped under the radar during the classification standardization. Either way, this is a great bottle. One of the few that have burrowed a permanent niche in my mind. Drink drink drink.

2008 Fattoria Casisano Colombaio Rosso di Montalcino DOC



I'd say a textbook "Baby Brunello", so I'm pleased to say, for once, that I got all I expected! Upon first opening mostly barnyard on the nose, but not offensive. Also strong presence of shoe leather. Surprising for a 2008. That is to say, not as fresh as I expected. Extreme sour/candied cherries upon tasting, which I enjoyed. Also cherry cola, which I haven't tasted from a Sangiovese in a while. Going down, a strong sensation of the tannins, but again I didn't mind this. An enjoyable drink. Well-structured, revealed itself slowly. Too bad it went too fast, as I shared it with a table of vacationing drinkers impressed with something other than boxed Malbec.

2009 Li Veli Negroamaro Passamante (Salento) IGT

      Big Negroamaro fan; next to Sangiovese and Dolcetto probably my favorite Italian varietal.

      When blended with a touch of Malvasia Nera—as in Salice Salentino—the results can be divine. I’m thinking of Taurino’s wine, which I remember as an epic $15 wine from Trader Joe’s. They stopped carrying it, and I still cannot find it again to save my life, even at the bigger wine stores I visit. Negroamaro is still a semi-obscure grape to American drinkers, and producers of it are few and far between. Quality is surprisingly standardized, however. I consider this a baby Salice Salentino, without the Malvasia.

      But this wine fell flat. No fruit on the palate—almost unheard-of for Negroamaro, which can border on jammy. Wine Spectator calls is “rustic”. Alright. Almost a stale nose, even though I know the wine hadn’t gone bad. Didn’t  come through sensually  even when paired with short ribs and salmon. How frustrating.

      Picked this up at Coit Liquor on Columbus Ave. in  the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco during my wine-tasting road trip up North. Think I   paid around $15? I don’t recommend. It’s a pass     for me.



2009 Corte Gardoni Le Fontane Bardolino DOC

       Let’s be honest: summer isn’t my favorite season to drink wine. With smoldering afternoons and poolside barbeques, I usually reach for a cold, refreshing lager. But this, my friends, is the perfect summer red wine. Light, dry, and unpretentious. Who could ask for anything more? A “non-Valpolicella” blend of mostly Corvina, followed by Rondinella and Molinara. Maybe they add a few others? I’m not sure about the laws up there. Certainly less image-conscious than Big Brother Val. Was the last of a slew of highly enjoyable inexpensive light, dry, tart wines from all around Italy. Some candied fruit. Don’t mind that it’s young; this is intended to be drunk within a couple years. Paired this with home-made potato-ricotta gnocchi in a butter cream sage sauce (Whoa! So good. I’ll post the recipe and pics soon), BBQ chicken, and julienned summer veggies. A lovely evening on the back patio with The Sober Swede and my married friends, Erin and Steve Rossi. Picked this one up at the suggestion of my Aunt Regina at the import store called Valley Wine Shack in Sonoma owned by her friend, Windee, for $11.60. What a steal!

2008 Cantine di Dolianova Monica di Sardegna DOC


Where would the world of obscure Italian varietals be without me help? Monica di Sardegna, not Cannonau di Sardegna. Fine. Upon first opening an initial very attractive attack of fresh fruit. Almost a port quality to the bouquet. A hint of vanilla on the palate, but not in an oaky sort of way. Slightly floral. Cranberries. Medium-modied. Moderate tannins. The issue is the alcohol. It’s very present, and not well-integrated. The finish is bent—a little off. Makes me wince, actually.   A very off-kilter wine. I’m not a fan. Wish my first exposure to this varietal had been better. Bought for $11 at Total Wine in Thousand Oaks.




2007 Capezzano Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC

      Not an earth-shattering wine, but worth mentioning as a little geography lesson. Carmignano DOCG is one of Tuscany's most premier non-Chianti wine-making zones, and has been since the Middle Ages. Here, Sangiovese has been blended with Cabernet well before the concept of the Super Tuscan was introduced. The Barco Reale label is its little brother, often made from less noble grapes and intended for early consumption. They are wines that show less aging power. For $10.99 at Ventura Wine Co. in Ventura, this wasn't bad at all. Good balance, abeit little secondary expression.





2009 La Castella Pinot Nero Puglia IGT


      A curious little bottle, but a delight to drink. The bottle indicates no vintage, although doing research online, it appears as though the 2009 vintage is the only one available. Entirely transculent ruby in the glass. An alluring bouquet reminding me of Burgundy, or a very savory Oregon Pinot. This stuff is like drinking water, in a very very good way. Reminded me of the Evodia Garnacha. 12% by volume; it's been so long since  I've seen wine that low, and I'm pleased! Palate full   of bright, fresh red fruit while remaining dry. Does    not stand up well to oxygen, though. After an hour   out of the bottle it had gone sour. I was nervous about drinking a Pinot from Puglia (more well-known as a region for producing Negroamaro and Primitivo), as their wines can be quite jammy due to the warm climate, but this was restrained and elegant. To be honest, I don't think I've ever been disappointed with a Pinot Noir from Italy. Such a steal for $10 at Bevmo in Westlake.

2004 Navarro Lopez Gran Reserva Tempranillo DO


      So if Italian wine is my wife, then Spanish wine is certainly my mistress. This is a big boy, not for the faint of heart. It knows what it wants to do and doesn't yield for anything. Surprisingly inky in color for its age. Has not paled from its deep purple despite seven years in the cellar (Although there are traces of brown, especially around the edges). An initial nose of burnt wood; certainly a smoky, BBQ aspect to it. Also gravel on the nose. The Sober Swede was overhwhelmed by watermelon, which I didn't get. An agressive attack of pure savory meat: red meat. Like the warm blood was still oozing out. No trace of fruit on the palate--at least not until the second glass. Completely bone dry here, and its dryness really shocked me every time I went for another try. A Chianti-like sandpaper quality with the body and boldness of a serious California Cab. Moderate finish. Would love to try again in three years once the tannins have smoothed out, as they are quite assertive now (I don't mind them--some might though). I should have saved a bit of it overnight to see how it stayed til the next day, but we were enjoying it so it went. Certainly a bigger wine than both the Valserrano and the Granrojo. Paired with pineapple teriyaki BBQ chicken thighs, brown Basmati rice, a summer vegetable succotash, and homemade chunky hummus. Aristotle meets Cervantes meets Faulkner, you could say. The dinner was delicious and paired just fine with the wine, but I would have preferred tri-tip if I had known. Overall, I was impressed. A great example of how muscular and manly a Tempranillo can be. So much good stuff is coming out of Spain! Purchased this at Bevmo in Westlake for $25. Good deal.

2003 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG


A little bit of information about Brunello di Montalcino. Considered to be the “elite” of the Sangiovese varietal offerings (more esteemed than even Chianti Classico or Riserva) because it derives from a presumably superior clone called Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello, or “little dark one”, is the nickname). Must be 100% Sangiovese Grosso. First cultivated by forward-thinking vintner Clemente Santi and his grandson Ferruccio Biondi, and still today the Biondi-Santi label is a benchmark. Must be aged a minimum of two years in Slovenian (or sometimes French) oak and another five years in the bottle (otherwise the tannins would be unpalatably offensive) before being sold. Some say it’s best to wait a minimum of 10 years before consumption. Can age well over fifty years. Along with Barolo, Italy’s most prestigious wine and the one that is most highly sought after for collecting. Likened to Burgundy in that the international demand far exceeds the limited supply. They’re also quite expensive, few of which retail for under $50. The good news is that because of its limited planting zone and unique history, Brunello producers know that they have something special and take pride in their product, which means that even at high price points you’re rarely going to be disappointed.  

This is excellent wine and a legitimate Brunello. Having aged 8 years, it exhibits an earthy, woodsy bouquet and also that of mature rather than fresh fruit. A deep orange/rust/brick red hue. The Sober Swede noticed acid on the back palate, reminding us that this is, in fact, still Sangiovese. The attack was super smooth and took almost no time to become accustomed to (the two-hour decanting period helped, I’m sure). An excellent, spacious mouthfeel. On the palate I got a profile of dried strawberries dipped in Balsamic vinegar. No off flavors whatsoever. Nice tannic structure; not too powerful. Chalkiness at the roof of the mouth (Heather) and at the front of the mouth (Eric). Paired with limoncello chicken piccata over whole wheat spaghetti and julienned vegetables. A clear specimen of excellent winemaking. One of those rare wines that makes you say, I’ll have to try more of that…out of pure curiosity. I was impressed. Purchased at Best Buy Liquors in Camarillo for $45, which is a good deal.



2005 La Loggia Barolo DOCG 






Surprisingly accessible for a Barolo, even if it's already six years old. Sour cherries on the palate, but not puckeringly so. Brick red with lots of brown. I don't care what anyone says: Nebbiolo is a medium-bodied grape, and just because these wines age well and exhibit earthy tones such as tobacco, they don't compare in brute thickness to Syrah and Cabernet. This is a great example. A great introduction to the grape and style without having to break the bank. I've had Barbarescos three times the price that were so dry and austere that I couldn't even enjoy them. This wine has fruit, body, tannin, acid, and you don't have to wrack your brain to enjoy it. Key word: balance.

2004 Valserrano Reserva Rioja DOCa


I know, not an Italian wine! Don’t tell anyone. But I love Rioja. And this is exactly why. 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano (No, not Garnacha). They really know how to make wine. On the nose, overwhelming notes of pomegranate (which I usually get more from Grenache). Also quite floral, as in rose petals, perfume, or potpourri. I got the spice—in the form of pepper, cloves, and cinnamon.  Surprisingly elegant for being almost all Tempranillo, which typically tends more toward muscular.  The seven years in the cellar and bottle must be the cause of its smoothness. I also noticed a cough syrup-like numbness on the throat, accompanied by a lovely finish. Purchased at Total Wine in Thousand Oaks for $19, which I believe is a good deal. Worth the money. Perhaps I’d buy it again?

2009 La Crotta Di Vegneron Chambave, Vallee D'Aoste DOC

La Crotta what? Exactly. Talk about esoteric. But that’s what I love! Ok, so this wine comes from the Vallee D’Aoste region of the extreme north of Italy, North of Piedmont and bordering France and Switzerland. Statistically, Italy’s smallest and least populated region. I lived in Italy for a year and never heard of the place. I’m sure it’s the region that all third-grade Italian children forget on their quiz on regions. Besides borrowing grapes from the neighboring areas of Piedmont (Nebbiolo, Dolcetto) and France (Gamay and Pinot Noir), they have a star of their own: the mysterious but endearing Petit RougeAlthough the bottle doesn’t say, this wine would be classified a “Chambave Rosso”, as opposed to the other types of wines from here, which are a Moscato and a rosè. Chambave is the name of the small town where the wine cooperative is located, but it is also the name of the district. Don’t leave it to the Italians to simplify these things. By DOC regulations these wines must be made up of at least 60% Petit Rouge, and the rest can be any mixture of Dolcetto, Pinot Noir, and Gamay (all very similar grapes in terms of acidity, tartness, and body) and a couple other grapes I had never heard of. In the bottle quite translucent. Lucky for me, since it was a warm summer evening and I was tempted to crack open a beer instead. In the glass, a very attractive garnet. I noticed a slight carbonation in the decanter. My first impression of the flavor profile was a combination of Gamay and Pinor Noir. Certainly more in the Burgundian style (dry and reserved), but without the earthiness of Burgundy, of course. On the palate nothing earth-shattering, but the wine is attractive and clean. Raspberry was the overwhelming note for me, especially in relation to the dry tartness. Don’t expect a super-long finish. This wine is young and meant to be drunk young. Not bad slightly chilled either. One review noted a tinge of spiciness (coriander), which I did not get, although it stood up just fine to curry chicken (I feel like I’m always eating curry chicken). This is the third of seven bottles I bought at Astor Wines in Manhatten (but the first to be reviewed....sorry). Not a bad gig for $17 I must say. It didn’t change my life, and I won’t be buying this particular wine again, but it was a good experiment.


2006 Cantine Antionio Caggiano Taurasi Vigna Macchia Dei Goti Aglianico DOCG  


I    
I just don’t know. I already know I’m a fan of the Aglianico grape because I enjoyed the Tenuta Del Portale a lot. Textbook speaking, everything’s here: great tannic structure, a lingering finish, nice full body, well-balanced, blah blah  blah. But this wine is lacking umph. No character. No personality.  Maybe it's going through its "dumb phase".  I had no reason to return for a second or third sip. And I    know primarily why: I don’t get any fruit and no secondary characteristics. I don’t mind bone-dry, but for a wine of this price point ($45) I need something else to latch onto. So I looked up its online reviews to see if I was crazy and apparently I am; reviewers noted an entire array of flavors, from nutmeg to cedar, tar, tobacco, leather,  balsamic vinegar, and died leaves. Granted, it’s not  cherries and blueberries—these wines require a more sophisticated palate. But I’ve taste balsamic vinegar before. And I love nutmeg and am very sensitive to it. One reviewer described  it as a "volcanic soil-driven sexy beast". That sounds good. I want that wine! But this was not that wine. Closed off, you could say. Too young? It’s five years old, which is, in fact, too young for these wines, but most of these wines you can still enjoy to some degree when they’re immature. Bought it at the recommendation of the wine manager at Total Wine in Thousand Oaks. Again, for $45, which really didn’t deliver. For now I’ll move on. I guess it’s back to Franzia.


2006 Tenuta Del Portale Aglianico Del Vulture DOC


Excellent tanic structure for this price range. No off flavors whatsoever. Wines from Southern Italy (especially Basilicata) are off the radar and so are still very under-priced. Raisin notes. Delicious chalk sensation on the lips. A great entry-level introduction to the grape, the expression of which can be extremely diverse. What would it taste like in 4-5 years?







2008 Masi Valpolicella Classico--Boncosta


My first Valpolicella, so I didn’t know what to expect. Valpolicella is not a varietal itself but is a wine named for the “viticultural zone” in the Veneto region of Northeast Italy. It is a blend of three grapes: mostly Corvino, Rondinella, and Molina. Unfortunately most bottles don’t specify the percentage of each grape, which can be frustrating when determining whether you don’t like Valpolicella at all or are just averse to a particularly strong varietal component. The color of this Masi was a deep blood red with some hints of brown. The initial nose was that of nail polish remover (I’m not joking), which smoothed out after a few minutes. Regardless, a pungent bouquet. Taste was something other than I had ever tasted before. My initial taste was blood, which I had only tasted once before with a Tuscan Sangiovese. The flavor would have been offensive had the wine not gone down so smoothly. Not a super-long finish, but enjoyable. Not good enough to drink the whole bottle. I let it stay overnight, but it turned flat by the next day. I wouldn’t buy this again any time soon, but would rather explore other offerings of this style. Labelled “classico” because of the specific zone of the region it was grown in, but for these wines not as strong of an indication of quality as, say, Chianti Classico.  




Entry-level Dolcetto Drink-Off 

                                                                 1. 2009 Mauro Sebaste Dolcetto D'Alba DOC
Sure, Dolcettos tend to be simple wines, but this is simple simple. On one hand, the wine is well-made. By this I mean I detected not even a hint of any lapse in production that would result in off flavors, which made me forget that I was even drinking wine. On the other hand, I found it boring. It just didn’t bring much personality to the table, which also made me forget I was drinking wine. Drank it over a couple hours and it never really opened up. Would I have guessed it was Dolcetto? Probably not. Purchased it for $15 at Total Wine in Thousand Oaks




                                                                                                                                                                                                     
 2. 2009 Bruno Porro Dolcetto di Dogliani 
A better entry-level introduction to the varietal, as it offers a more interesting nose and a simplicity that still retains some sort of character. Not a lot going on, but it's technically sound and offers the characteristic Dolcetto dryness with fruity overtones. I would buy again for $9.99 at Trader Joe's. 

Winner: Bruno Porro
2007 Niner Sangiovese- Paso Robles


I just don't know what to make of his wine. On one hand it's got the beautiful translucent garnet color and fresh, perky attack of some of the best wines made from the Sangiovese grape, and yet on the other hand there are unforgiveable "off" flavors in the mid-palate as well as the presence of serious heat due to its extreme alcohol content (14.9%). There's a natural appeal to this wine's taste, but it's not an entirely enjoyable experience. Regarding the alcohol content, my primary question in, what was the winemaker's intention? Sangiovese should never be this steep. It seems as though the grapes must have been too ripe when picked, which is a fundamental winemaking flaw. This is the major flaw of attempting to grow the Sangiovese grape in California, which is that there is too much sunlight. Memories of Zinfandel, without the jamminess. Purchased at Total Wine in Thousand Oaks for $16, which was $4 less than I would have bought it at my new favorite local wine room, Best Buy Wines and Liquors. I'd say it was worth the purchase simply because its characteristics raise a lot of questions, but I wouldn't go back for more. No Stolpman, that’s for sure!


2006 Monte Antico IGT

Full-page Monte Antico
ad in Wine Spectator.
Still surprised it got included
 in 2009's Top 100?

Technically a Super Tuscan, it’s made of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet, and 5% Merlot. While definitely worth the $9 I paid at World Market in Westlake, it’s not worth the 90 points that James Suckling from Wine Spectator gave it. One of the top 100 wines of 2009? Nah. It actually would be a lovely wine without the overpowering prune flavor, which turns me off. Otherwise I got strong notes of cherry cola. I kept drinking it because of the pleasant chalky astringency it left on the tongue, thanks to the Cabernet. Won’t be buying it again.






2008 Tiamo Sangiovese IGT



The misspelling of "I love you" in Italian (Ti amo) and a greeting from the not-so-Italian Sager and Master families on the label didn't detract me from drinking and enjoying this really nice entry-level Sangiovese. It hails from Le Marche, an arguably lackluster region of Central Italy on the Adriatic Coast (especially on the vinicultural front) just south of Emilia-Romagna and east of Umbria. This wine attracted me for the very reason that it was not from Tuscany--wanted to try something different. Ruby in color and medium-bodied, I tasted ample fresh fruit on the attack, followed by a lovely dry mid palate and finish. Overwhelming notes of strawberries (typical of Sangiovese) and a bit of prune. The Sober Swede noticed a numbing on the tongue, and I confirmed a similar sensation on the lips. A slight but not undesirable burn was present on the way down. I paired it with curry risotto topped with  mild apple sausage, and the spiciness of the curry made it taste much different than the sweetness of the sausage, the later bringing out notes of beries and mellowing out the tannins. Curious to know if it's blended with anything else (This wine does not need to be made from 100% Sangiovese by Italian law, and probably isn't.)  I bought this at Wally's Wine and Spirits in Westwood for $10, and it's a steal for that price (remember import taxes). Mmmmm I love Sangiovese.




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